Velour has a complicated reputation. Some people cringe when they hear the word, believing it’s simply a low-quality copy of the far more sophisticated velvet. Others have terrifying flashbacks to seventies leisurewear or the brightly coloured tracksuits of the early 2000s.
Velvet, on the other hand, is traditionally made from silk, and alongside actually being luxurious, even the word sounds soft and indulgent. It’s often considered the king, or perhaps queen, of soft, tactile fabrics.
In reality, velvet and velour are simply different materials. They are made differently, they behave differently, and they were developed for different purposes. The idea that velvet is the “real” version and velour is merely a lesser substitute owes more to perception than to the textiles themselves.
Understanding that difference matters more than you might think. The two fabrics appear in very different places, from theatre curtains to contemporary upholstery, and the reasons for those choices lie in how the materials behave rather than how they are perceived.
All of that said, most people couldn’t actually tell you what either fabric is, how it’s made, or where it came from.
How velour got its reputation
If velvet remained closely tied to formality and tradition, velour found popularity in more casual settings. In the 1970s it became widely used in leisurewear, or “athleisure”, and soft furnishings during a period that favoured bold colours and synthetic materials. Decades later, it reappeared in celebrity-led fashion trends, often in highly visible and highly stylised ways.
It is not that velour was poor quality. It was simply very visible, very accessible and, at times, very fashionable.
Velvet got the opera house. Velour got the dance floor.
Velvet still sounds more luxurious
Hotel Chocolat chose to name its now-famous hot chocolate machine the “Velvetiser.”
Why? Because the word velvet instantly suggests smoothness and indulgence. It sounds luxurious before you even taste the drink. If they had called it the “Velour-etiser”, it probably wouldn’t have had quite the same ring, nor generated the same volume in sales that are currently more than £150 million.
That choice tells us how deeply embedded those associations are. Velvet has had centuries to build its image, its brand. Whike velour is still viewed by some through the lens of more recent fashion trends.
What is velvet?
Velvet has existed in some form for thousands of years, with early silk versions appearing as far back as 2000 BC. It is a woven fabric traditionally made on a loom using a technique that creates a dense, upright pile. In simple terms, two layers of fabric are woven together and then cut apart. The remaining fibres are trimmed to produce a smooth, plush surface of short fibres standing upright.
When you brush velvet in different directions, you can see light and shade shift across the surface. That distinctive movement is part of its appeal, but not everyone is a fan. Anyone with velvet cushions or seats will know the slightly frantic pre-visitor ritual: a quick brush of the hand across the pile so the light falls evenly again and the cushions all look properly behaved.
Velvet can also be crushed. This happens when the pile fibres are bent or flattened in different directions. If the compression is brief, the pile will usually recover. If it is long-term, such as when a heavy object has been placed on it for some time, even steaming will not always restore it fully. Ironically, the higher the silk content of the velvet, the more susceptible it can be to crushing, while cotton or synthetic blends are generally more resilient and likely to recover better.
Historically, velvet was made only from silk, which made it expensive and relatively rare. Today it is also produced in cotton, viscose, polyester and a variety of blends, so it is far more accessible than it once was. Even so, it has retained a strong association with theatre curtains, formalwear and heritage interiors.
Its status, then, comes partly from how it is made and partly from centuries of cultural association.
What is velour?
You may find this hard to beehive, but velour dates back to at least the nineteenth century. The word itself comes from the French velours, meaning velvet (or ‘velvety fabric’), and was originally used to describe soft pile fabrics with a similar feel. The velour we know today developed much later as textile manufacturing evolved, eventually becoming widely used once modern fibres made it durable, consistent and practical for everyday use.
Like velvet, velour has a soft cut-pile surface, but it is usually knitted rather than woven. The pile is created through a different manufacturing process, often involving looped yarns that are later cut and brushed to achieve a smooth finish.
The pile is also typically shorter and slightly flatter than traditional velvet, which gives it a more uniform appearance. One significant advantage is that velour tends not to show the same dramatic shading when brushed, which can be particularly helpful in upholstery and printed designs, particularly when using plain colours.
Because velour is knitted, it often has a small amount of stretch and flexibility. This can make it easier to work with in certain applications, especially upholstery, as it is more forgiving in everyday environments.
The question of synthetic materials
Velour is most commonly made from synthetic fibres such as polyester, sometimes blended with other materials. This is often where negative assumptions begin, because the word “synthetic” is sometimes taken to mean inferior. But in reality, synthetic fibres are frequently chosen for their durability, colour retention and ability to withstand daily use.
For some people the use of man-made fibres immediately lowers the perceived value of a material. Yet we live comfortably with engineered materials in almost every part of daily life. The trainers we walk in, the waterproof jackets we rely on, the insulation in our homes, the seatbelts in our cars, and even modern aircraft all depend on synthetic materials. They are chosen not because they are cheaper, but because they are durable, stable and built to last. In many cases, modern materials are not simply alternatives to natural ones. They exist because they perform better.
In upholstery, that durability matters. Fabrics need to cope with friction, light exposure and repeated use while retaining their colour and structure for as long as possible.
A good quality upholstery velour will display print exceptionally well, resist crushing and maintain a more consistent appearance over time. Those characteristics are not accidental. They are part of its design. And in that context, synthetic does not mean second best. It means purpose-built.
In furniture, it comes down to suitability
In contemporary upholstery, a finely finished velour can feel beautifully tactile. Its shorter pile allows colour and detail to appear crisp and vibrant. Its resilience suits modern living, where furniture is expected to be used rather than admired from a distance.
Whilst velvet remains a wonderful fabric, rich in history and atmosphere, velour deserves to be appreciated for what it offers in its own right.
The choice between them is not really about status. It is about context, performance and the kind of space you want to create.
Written by Clive Wilson, co-founder of Zanoogo. The Journal explores ideas around design, instinct, and the way we live with the things we choose.
